Het Nieuwe Instituut

The hoodie tells many stories that define our times – tales of social inequality, youth culture, subculture, police brutality, racism, privacy, fear and, in turn, style. With its roots in sports clothing and workwear, the hoodie as we know it today was popularised by Champion in the 1930s as a practical solution for workmen. It is now, arguably, western fashion’s last truly political garment – a garment that can incite fear, jealously, camaraderie and even fury in others – as well as being a garment you can lose your life by wearing.

The lingering question posed by the hoodie is simply: ‘Who enjoys the right to wear one without challenge?’ (The New York Times)

The hoodie sparks a range of emotions, communicating all manner of social and cultural ideas and nuances depending on the gender, geography, age, conduct and ethnicity of the wearer and, in turn, the prejudices and politics of the viewer. To some it is a clothing solution and nothing more. To others, its complexities are unavoidable. Based on the particular context, the hoodie can be both boring or iconic, bourgeois or rebellious, provide a safe shelter or trigger aggression, generate invisibility or privacy or make an explicit statement; you will find it on the streets, on sports tracks, on the catwalk and in the office.